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If you had a perm in the 80s, you’ll no doubt cringe at old photographs of yourself sporting something akin to candy floss where your hair should have been.
For some of us, those memories of corkscrew curls are so bad that ever since we've used a barrage of heated gadgets to eradicate the slightest kink, while smothering our locks in serum to deflect frizz.
Well now, along with shoulder pads and bubble skirts, the perm seems to be clawing its way back into our lives. “The perm has such a strong image of tight frizzy, 80s curls associated with it, many people have steered clear of it for the past two decades” says Hiroki Kobayashi - Creative Director of Baroque Hair & Nails. “But now more stylists are realising that the perm can add variety to hairstyles and actually lends itself quite well to the layered looks that have recently become popular.”
Girls, no need to cling to your neatly straightened hair in horror: like all good re-runs, the ’09 version of the perm is new and improved: think soft and natural.
Manufacturers have done a lot of research and development into evolving the perm from the over-processed look made famous by the likes of Kevin Keegan and EastEnders’ Angie Watts, into something altogether more refined.
According to Akin Konizi, Hairdressers Journal British Hairdresser of the Year (and International Creative Director at Hob Salons), the new perm is a far cry from the frizz-fest we remember. It’s gentler and more nourishing and can provide a variety of different sized waves. “The perm is a good tool for enhancing volume and building body,” says Konizi. “It’s great for creating movement and texture, allowing you to sport anything from rock chic waves and tousled tresses through to glamorous curls and textured locks.”
Having spent almost 20 years coveting shiny sleek straight hair, I’ve tried everything from ionic blow dries to super-hot irons to achieve that illusive glossy look. So the idea of going ‘au-natural’ with my curls fills me with the same sense of unease as accidentally leaving the house without knickers on. But it does also appeal to my laid back side.
As leading hairstylist Andrew Collinge points out: “The main advantage of having a perm is that you can literally wash and go. The perm provides a long-lasting, easy and low maintenance style.” And if you happen to have naturally curly hair, even better. “Most people ask me how they can achieve shine and texture for their hair. The best way is simply to get a cut that works well with your hair's natural wave.”
Perm or no perm, for autumn/winter this year, cutting edge hair is definitely going to involve lots of movement and texture. Celebs like Leighton Meester and Beyonce have recently been spotted sporting Nicole Kidman-esque curly locks and Grazia reminds us that Dior and Jean Paul Gaultier chose corkscrew curls to showcase their couture collections in Paris.
Tempted? For a look that is bang on trend, Konizi suggests: “Wear your perm big and voluminous. Wash your hair, apply a moisturising cream to coat the cuticle and follow with mousse to give some definition. Next, either tip your head upside down and diffuse or simply leave the hair to dry naturally.”
The dos and don’ts of the new perm
Image ©PA
DO
• Look after your hair by investing in regular deep conditioning treatments to keep locks soft, glossy and help boost the overall sheen.
• Keep the hair looking natural: apply Alterna’s Texturings Glaze which will add moisture, follow with mousse for definition and simply leave to dry. This will give you that 80’s feel which is right on trend.
• Be creative with your perm. Experiment with different looks such as sleek panels contrasted with ultra volume through the rest of the hair, as seen on Karl Lagerfield’s autumn/winter 09 catwalk show.
DON’T
• Never use a fine-toothed comb on permed hair, as this puts stress on the hair shaft and will result in a very frizzy look.
• Don’t over process your hair when drying as this will give the hair a messy and unruly look. Instead keep it simple, quick and leave slightly damp where possible.
• To maintain good condition, don’t excessively wash the hair. Instead work with your hair’s natural state for a more rock chic 80’s feel and texture.
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